This ’10 Challenger acquired twin turbos and a longer stroke, which combined developed 640 rwhp. A 42% increase in power means one thing: a stronger clutch would be necessary to transmit the power.
The experts tell us that of modern-day muscle cars the Challenger holds closest to the idea of the original by delivering blistering straight-line speed, immense road presence and a ride comfortable enough to cruise the boulevards all day.
The ’10 Dodge Challenger generates just less than 450 hp. But things change when the 5.7L (345 ci) engine is stroked to 394 ci and twin turbochargers are added. Recently, Tim Matherley of MV Performance in Winder, Georgia, did just that. When work was completed, the Challenger made 640 rwhp at 5,900 rpm and generated 720 ft-lbs torque. To cope with the 42% increase in power, Tim selected Ram’s Force 10.5 dual-disc and aluminum flywheel assembly to replace the original 9.5-inch OEM dual-disc arrangement. To understand and master the process, we invite you to follow Tim’s steps and learn how to perform a clutch upgrade.
First, the driveshaft, exhaust system and starter motor were removed. The slave assembly and part of the two-piece shifter stick mechanism were disconnected. A transmission jack was secured to the six-speed manual Tremec 6060 gearbox. Then the six fasteners from the cross member and eight from around the bell housing were disconnected, allowing for the transmission’s removal.
1. To install a new upgraded clutch-flywheel assembly you must first dismantle it. Manufacturer Ram Clutches applies black alignment marks to the cover assembly and the flywheel. These should be observed during installation. Proper alignment maintains the correct position of the pressure plate straps in relation to the floater plate straps, ensuring proper clutch release. The purpose of the pedal adjuster—the small hydraulic device pictured to the right of the clutch assembly with the adjuster nut on top—allows the height of the pedal to be conveniently lowered if preferred.2.The operating position of the pressure plate, located within the cover assembly, is set at the factory by means of spacers and shims, and must be maintained during the installation. The shims ensure an exact installed height to operate correctly with the hydraulic system.3.The floater plate operates between the inner and outer clutch discs. Its straps, which rest on three small spacers, are secured to the aluminum flywheel. Note that the floater plate is distinguished by its Blanchard-ground surfaces, which achieve better disc seating.4.The fundamental difference between Ram’s two clutch plates is the springs. The outer plate (right) features a sprung hub, while the inner clutch plate has no springs. Eight springs are introduced to add cushioning for a smoother drive.5. Ram’s aluminum flywheel features a ¼-inch-thick steel insert that interfaces with the inner solid-hub clutch plate. Both clutch plates feature Ram’s 300 series organic linings that transmit power up to 900 ft-lbs rear-wheel torque.6.Tim Matherley marks the inner and outer clutch plates and floater plate to ensure they will all be installed correctly.7. Though the original twin-disc clutch retains the same basic architecture as the replacement, there are several important differences. The replacement Ram Force 10.5 is designed to accept twice the power of the original unit and can be dismantled for inspection and parts replacement. The original equipment clutch assembly is riveted together as a one-piece unit; it’s not serviceable, and can only be replaced as a complete unit.8.A new pilot bearing is installed in the end of the crankshaft and the original flywheel is removed.9. Though Ram’s aluminum flywheel and clutch assembly weighs around 54 pounds compared to the original unit at roughly 68 pounds, the flywheel mass of Ram’s unit has the reputation for efficiency, dissipating heat faster than the thinner nodular counterpart on the left.10.Using a dab of Loctite #277 for security, eight bolts connect the flywheel to the crankshaft flange. Adopting a crisscross tightening sequence, the bolts are tensioned to 85 ft-lbs.11.By inserting a clutch alignment tool into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft, the inner clutch disc is centered, and the floater plate is attached to the flywheel and tensioned to 35 ft-lbs. Then the outer clutch disc is slipped into place, centered by the clutch alignment tool.12.Next, the cover assembly is put in place using the studs, spacers, shims and nuts provided. A crisscross tightening sequence is adopted while ensuring the clutch alignment tool slides back and forth during the tightening process.13.Without this round, anodized aluminum spacer, the slave assembly, complete with its green bellows and release bearing, won’t be properly positioned.14.The spacer ensures the slave assembly resides in the exact location for the clutch to have sufficient travel to disengage. It also allows for wear in the clutch discs over time.15. Using a transmission jack, raise the gearbox toward the transmission tunnel. But before sliding it fully into position, reconnect the hydraulic feed line. This allows fluid trapped in the bearing to return to the master cylinder, easing the installation of the transmission. Secure the bell housing to the motor.16.Refit the shift mechanism.17.Connect the shift linkage.18. Install the transmission cross member, following the direction arrows to ensure correct fitment.19.Replace the driveshaft.20.Refit the exhaust system.21.Lastly, install the pedal adjuster, which is situated in the hydraulic line connecting the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. If necessary, use the adjuster nut to lower the clutch pedal to a more comfortable position.
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